Samsung NX300: Example photos compared

While I figure out what scenes to use the other Smart Mode features for, here are some examples and comparisons of Manual Mode, Smart Mode: Landscape, Action Freeze, Creative Shot, Rich Tones.

All photos are unedited (i.e. colours are straight from camera).

Rich Tones under Smart Mode - colours look good and natural considering that the python was lying under a heating lamp.  F/2.2 so shallow depth of field, shutter 1/125, ISO 100.

Creative Shot - umm....here you can see how the heating lamp affected the photo and how over enthusiastic the feature was.  The heating lamp was not that bright red or that hot.  The Manual Mode and Rich Tones Mode are closer to what I saw.  Settings were the same as above except for the shutter speed which was 1/160.

In Manual Mode you control everything and here I used f5.6, 1/125, ISO 400.  I increased the ISO because this was in a shaded area, as evident by the shadow to the left.  I also wanted a larger depth of field which is why my ISO had to be increased.  I could have gotten away with 1/60 and decreased my ISO for less noise, but the photo was taken hand held so I didn't want to take a chance.

From the photos above you can see that different situations and lighting can give a different result each time.  Manual will most likely be more consistent but Rich Tones lightens the shadows more while increasing the yellow and reducing definition.

Creative Shot was too hot for the photo and didn't represent the correct lighting conditions.  Then again, it isn't called Creative Shot for nothing.  I'd avoid this anywhere near red lighting as it might give a negative result.  Some photographers may like this type of shot, so it's personal opinion.  The shot may have changed if I had moved a little to my left or right.  Creative Shot is not an exact science, more guesswork but more fun related.

I didn't use the other features here e.g. Action Freeze (no action) and Landscape (which is more for photos with green and blue).  The other features are obvious so they wouldn't have worked here (macro could have but with a shallow depth of field would have been similar to Rich Tones), however that doesn't mean you shouldn't try.  Features not meant for certain situations can produce some unusual photos by breaking the rules.  And rules are meant to be broken (something I should experiment with using the NX300).

Consistent and reliable, f/5.6, shutter 1/80, ISO 200.

As this was a moving body of water I tried Action Freeze.  If you look closer where the water is flowing over you can see a little more definition than in Manual Mode.  F/2, 1/250, ISO 100.  It's a little too light for my liking but that can easily be adjusted in Lightroom 4 with the shadows and highlights sliders.

As there was green and some feint blue, Landscape mode was an obvious choice.  Higher saturation than Action Freeze, but lower definition than in Manual Mode.  Again, this can easily be fixed in LR4.  f2.5, 1/160, ISO 100.  But f2.5 means shallow DOF?  It would appear the further you are away or the bigger the landscape, the larger your DOF with this feature.  I was fairly close to the scene above (so shallow DOF) and my focus area was centered over the water.  You can see feintly how the ducks on the left are starting to blur as well as the corners.

Rich Tones blew out the highlights and lost shadows, making it appear washed out.  LR4 will fix this but another instance of not really knowing how a feature will work in different situations. f2.5, 1/160 ISO 100.  IMO, Rich Tones is meant to boost colours, so it might be best used on a situation where the colours of a scene are not so bright in order for the feature to work better.  Take a look at the Python photo above, and you can see that the muted tones of the scene worked better as the feature didn't over saturate the colours.  

Creative Shot did a nice job of creating more drama with this photo in comparison to the Python.  A vignette was applied by the Samsung NX300's feature and looks pretty nice.  I would boost the tones in LR4 as the colours look a little bland.

From the second lot of photos, you can see how Rich Tones changed from one situation to the next. The feature didn't work so well with the Pond and Ducks, over exposing the photo whereas in the Python photo is exposed well and worked perfectly.

Same goes for Creative Shot.  The Python photo just didn't work and was too hot, too saturated but in the Pond and Ducks photo, it created a little drama and looked good.

I didn't use the Waterfall feature here (which would have looked fantastic) because I didn't have my tripod or something stable.  I tried leaning on the bridge for stability but the bouncing up and down of people walking behind made it impossible to get a clear, clean shot.  

This shots and those that follow have green and blue predominantly so lets see how some of the settings work with this.  Rich Tones didn't do too badly, lighting the building and lamp while darkening the sky just a little.  My issue with Rich Tones is that it sometimes removes quite a bit of definition with the intention of creating a lighter photo. f/4, 1/400, ISO 100.

Not much difference in the blue and green compared to Manual Mode, but that purple hue in the clouds was decreased. f3.5, 1/400, ISO 100.

Manual Mode and Landscape Mode gave similar results even though the settings were different.  Manual Mode also gave that purple hue in the clouds whereas Landscape Mode was decreased.  Manual Mode was a little more clearer/sharper.  f5.6, 1/500, ISO 200.

Creative Shot was a little lighter in the shadow areas and similar to Landscape Mode, so I would guess that it chose Landscape for this shot.  f3.5, 1/400, ISO 100.  But, the purple hue is increased so I could be wrong.  I would think the camera would use Landscape but as I wasn't paying attention to what it selected at the time I won't know.  EXIF data will only show Creative Mode afterwards.

From the settings from the building shot, you can see that the Smart Mode features use similar settings in comparison to Manual Mode.  Personal settings can change the result quite a bit, so while these features are fun I still recommend giving Manual Mode a try.

The last set of photos.

Manual Mode, this time more blue sky in contrast with the building. Again, that purple hue is there (my format settings were set to JPG and not RAW, where as RAW might have given a different result).  Colours are good but I would want to add a little more hue to the building. f5.6, 1/500, ISO 200. 

Deeper blue, richer tones in the building, that annoying purple hue. f4, 1/500, ISO 100.

The blue sky is less saturated than Creative Shot, the foreground (building) is lightened. Definition is less and the shadow at the bottom from the building to the right is lighter.  Very similar to Manual Mode but shadows in the trees are lighter. f4, 1/500, ISO 100. 

For these shots above, even with Manual Mode the settings were fairly close.  Like I said, it's not an exact science when using automatic features on the NX300, or any other camera.  The advanced modes, especially Manual, give you somewhat more consistent results.

But these creative features are meant for creative use when you want slightly quicker results than using photo manipulation software.

Samsung NX300 Smart Mode: Macro, Action Freeze and Rich Tones

Macro

Macro is my area of interest with photography and after working with a macro lens for years, I was expecting results from this mode.

I'm sorry to say it's not what I would call wow.  I used the Macro Mode and then duplicated the settings in Manual and came up with the same result.  Macro gives a shallow depth of field meaning only a small area is in focus.

Taken with 30mm lens.

The Macro Mode doesn't do you much good if your lens will only let you get so close (unless the lens has macro capabilities).  The 30mm wouldn't let me get closer than around 15cm (if you are measuring from the end of the lens to the object).  But, the 18-55mm has the advantage here because you can get as close as the lens will allow you (in this case around 9cm) and then zoom in.  Below is an example, no editing was done and is straight from the camera in low light.

The Macro feature keeps the aperture at its widest for example, the 30mm's widest aperture is f2.  This allows for more light but also decreases your depth of field, keeping a small area in focus and blurring out the rest.  This area of focus also depends on where you place it.  Take note how the second photo is darker because as you zoom out and your aperture gets smaller you also lose light (your aperture is closing a bit more so less light is allowed in).

For the 18-55mm, the feature keeps the aperture consistent according to the zoom i.e. this lens has an aperture of f3.5-f5.6 so when you are zoomed in at 18mm the feature will select f3.5 and keep it that.  If you zoom out the aperture will change e.g. at 55mm it will be f5.6.  On the 30mm, you will only have f2 available in Macro Mode.

The point is, you cannot change the shutter speed or aperture at any point in the Macro Mode.  ISO is chosen by the camera and in the example above of the rose, the NX300 chose ISO 1600 for low light.  Hardly any noise is visible (me and noise again lol).

Macro mode might be best suited to the Samsung 60mm macro lens.  Even then, why would you need a macro feature if you are using a macro lens?

This might be a draw card for those who have moved from point and shoot cameras that have a Macro feature.  A point and shoot certainly allows you to get closer and I had a chance to play with a Pentax WG-3 camera in Macro Mode.  Now that is impressive if you don't have a macro lens.  I was able to get as close as 1cm and even though there was a bit of softening in the photo, I'd still grab it first for any small details if my 100mm and Canon are not available.

I personally don't see any benefit of this mode, but for those used to the point and shoot method, this is a quick way to get that shallow depth of field without having to fiddle with settings.  But it won't get you closer.  Macro Lenses are not at all cheap and another method is a macro filter or extension tubes.  I think before I would use the Macro Mode I would instead use an extension tube (but I don't know if one exists for the Samsung NX300).

I still would love the 60mm Macro but it's a little out of my budget at present.

As with the other Smart Modes, only JPEG is available and remember that if you change any of the options under the JPEG menu, this also changes the quality option for all the other modes.  Drive is only Single or Timer and I really do miss the continuous option here as I rely on it while working with such fine detail, especially if that detail moves like an insect.

For someone like me who prefers macro lenses, this Macro feature doesn't appeal much to me. But the blurring action does lend some nice artistic ability.  Examples below are taken straight from camera.

Possible egg nest of sorts belonging to a spider.

I have included a short tutorial using Lens Priority with the standard 18-55mm kit lens that I think works better for macro than this feature.  See at the end of the article here: Lens Priority

Action Freeze

Action Freeze would be the equivalent of the Sports Mode on various other cameras.  It speeds up the shutter to freeze whatever is happening but it also pushes up the ISO. Aperture is adjusted and not fixed as with the Macro Mode.

Here the Drive mode includes Single, Continuous High, Continuous Normal, Burst and Timer.  So unlike Macro Mode you have more leverage here and can take multiple shots at once.

The more light you have the better because even though the Samsung NX300 handles noise exceptionally well, you still want to avoid having too much noise.  You don't control the ISO, so keep an eye on what is selected when taking photos.

ISO: 800, Shutter: 1/250, f/5.  It was a slightly overcast day but the camera pushed the ISO up to 800.  While the ducks are slow moving subjects I also used the water fountain for a fast moving object.  If the shutter was slower the water would have been blurred or "smoother".

ISO: 1600, Shutter: 1/250, f5.6.  Water, again.  I cropped in a little closer to give you an idea of how well action freeze works.  You can see the detail in water as it is flowing over the rocks.

Annnnnd...one more water shot.  Sorry but I haven't had time to look for actions shots as yet and water is the next best thing.  This photo was edited but as you can see, the detail captured in the waterfall is amazing.

As Action Freeze is meant for high speed photos, the camera will decide for you.  This also means you have no control and as a well known aviation photographer mentioned to me once, when a plane is in the air, you want to see some movement in the propellers.  The feature will stop the propellers dead. 

This feature will be great for sports shows like car and bike racing.  Hoping to get to a show for a few test shots.

If you were to pair Action Freeze with a macro lens you would be able to capture some fantastic photos of insects in flight, especially if you want to freeze the wings.  The only thing you would have to be careful of is the ISO as high ISO and macro don't gel.  If the camera chose an ISO of 800 or up while you are using the macro lens, you will definitely have noise in the background.  Reduced noise because of the Samsung NX300's performance, but still noise.

All in all a fun feature that will always come in handy for quick action shots.

Rich Tones

Rich Tones, I think, is more orientated towards the HDR (High Dynamic Range) of photos.  Three photos are taken one after another, each with a different exposure.  The first one is underexposed (dark), the second one with correct exposure and the third one overexposed (bright).  These three are then merged in camera to create a photo with a higher range of luminosity than normal photos.  Creates an almost painting like effect with brighter tones.

When you switch to Rich Tones, you will be instructed to hold the camera steady while the three photos are taken so that merging is effortless.  Pay attention to the shutter speed here as a slower shutter speed e.g. 1/50 and under can cause blurring although the camera will increase the ISO to increase speed.  If you do notice that the shutter speed is slow, use a tripod.

While using the mode in different situations I haven't had to use a tripod yet.

Camera again decides on the aperture but it's not set and will change depending on what the camera "sees".  Below I've added a quick example of changing the focus area so that if the camera selects a shallow depth of field you can still change where the selected focus is.

The photos were taken using the Rich Tones feature. The first one I touched the screen to select focus on the tree, which caused the lamp to be blurred out.  The second photo was focused on the lamp, which caused the tree to be blurred out.

As you can see from the photos, the feature tends to wash out the colours somewhat and bring in some unnatural luminosity to the blue sky seen through the parts of the tree.

With a little tweaking of levels, colours and saturation, it looks a little better.

In the photo above the luminosity is enhanced but maybe just a little too much.  Some of the shadow detail is lost and saturation could be brought down a notch.  Again, this is more of a quick photo feature than something you can adjust yourself in camera.  In Lightroom 4, supplied with the Samsung NX300, you can adjust accordingly.

The advantage to having this quick feature is that you don't have to run through the motions in the software to achieve a similar effect.  Just a bit of tweaking here and there and you're done.

Drive is either Single or Timer as the camera needs a few seconds to merge the three photos to produce this effect.  So attempts to take a burst of photos is not possible and this is understandable. Flash is not available for the same reason because the camera's flash would need to activate for each photo and the flash would not be able to keep up plus it would slow the entire process down.

I didn't include the settings above because both are different.  The reason I included the photo is to show the difference in detail.  In the Rich Tones photo, detail in the sky is kept and so is the blue.  But some detail and definition is lost on the body of the propeller making it appear a bit flat.

In the Manual photo you have more definition but all detail is lost in the sky and the colour is bleached to a white.

Taking into editing, I played with both the Rich Tones and Manual photo to see which would produce quicker results that are pleasing.

Similar editing adjustments were used in both photos as well as Topaz Clarity.  The Rich Tones photo has more colour and the clouds have a large amount of detail.  I prefer the colouring in Manual but Rich Tones has more of a HDR effect.

The problem with Manual is that attempting to bring any detail back into the clouds is almost impossible.  My best bet would be to replace the sky in Manual with the sky in Rich Tones, which would have taken time.

The Rich Tones photo was much quicker to adjust with a slightly more pleasing and dramatic result.  Note, this was just a few minutes editing, results would have been better if more time was spent on the photos.

Topaz Clarity enhanced the photo and allowed me to adjust as I chose.  Topaz Clarity is one of my favourite plugins and also works with Lightroom 4.  There are trials available for you to test out at http://www.topazlabs.com/store.

Unedited, Rich Tones.  Just to show that sometimes everything works out nicely.  With a little bit of editing this would work out great.

No feature is ever perfect and each photo is a different situation.  Sometimes it will work and sometimes it won't but there is usually some editing done on every single photo taken to sort out any imperfections.  

Also, the photos of the planes taken above was on an overcast day and I think the Rich Tones feature did well here.  The photos didn't turn out too dark or over exposed so if you are new to SLR, then Rich Tones might end up being one of your favourites for dull days.

HDR can achieve some beautiful results but some pretty terrible ones too.  Rich Tones is a nice feature that can be used to create what I would call a canvas or starting point for something unique.

For some beautiful HDR work and info: http://farbspiel-photo.com/